Iconic Family Wine Businesses – Phil Parker

Phil Parker is an Auckland based wine writer who has his own Fine Wine and Tour company

This month, I’m featuring wines from two iconic producers – Sir George Fistonich, and Pegasus Bay’s Donaldson Family.

Sir George has been in the industry since 1961 when he planted his first vineyard in Mangere at the tender age of 21 and started making wine under the Villa Maria label, which went on to become an international brand. He was one of many pioneering Croatian Auckland wine producers. Since 2021, NZ company Indevin Wines has taken over the Villa Maria brand, and Sir George has launched Fistonich Family Vineyards. His new venture, based in the former Esk Valley winery in Hawkes Bay, has been renamed the  Čuvar Winery. Čuvar (pronounced chu-var), is translates in Croatian as guardian. This year, two new brands – Obliix and Forest Flower Collection have been added to the stable.

Pegasus Bay is owned by the extensive Donaldson family, and is based in Waipara, North Canterbury. Ivan Donaldson, a professor of neurology, and his wife Christine started a hobby vineyard in the early 1970s. By the mid-1980s Ivan and Chris decided there was a future for wine making in Canterbury and went on to establish Pegasus Bay with the help of their four sons, who have all ended up working in key roles within the business. Their Pegasus Bay Pinot Noir is renowned as one of Canterbury’s greatest wines.

Pegasus Bay Bel Canto Dry Riesling 2023 $40
Slightly funky. Dry and mineral, with herbal thyme, beeswax, orange peel, mandarin citrus and a long complex dry flinty finish.
Available: Caro’s www.pegasusbay.com

Whyte  Estate Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2023 $16
Soft and herbal, restrained and elegant. Fresh picked black currant, guava, and passionfruit, with a  hint of citrus and feijoa.
Available: Dhall & Nash  blackmarket.com

Kumeu River Estate Chardonnay 2022 $44
A tad of flinty struck match on the nose. Pear and nectarine stone fruit, raw cashew nut, a hint of spicy oak, and mandarin citrus. Flinty mineral tangy yeast finish.
Available:  kumeuriver.co.nz  

Postage Stamp Ariki Waiheke Special Release Chardonnay 2020 $70
Mineral and full-bodied, from a great year for grapes. Hints of sandalwood and flinty salinity, backed up by stone fruit, lime citrus, raw almond. Bone dry, lengthy finish. 
Available: postagestampwines.co.nz  Case offer $69/bottle, 6 units per case

Pegasus Bay Vergence White Mk3 NV $27
A non-vintage white blend of about 60% semillon, with sauvignon blanc, gewürztraminer, muscat and riesling. Grassy, herbal, and slightly sweet. A hint of toffee apple, guava, frangipani, makrut lime and grapefruit marmalade.
Available: pegasusbay.com

Valli Waitaki Vineyard North Otago Pinot Noir 2021 $84

Stunningly good wine. Definitely, in my personal top ten. Velvety and full-bodied, with spiced Black Doris plum, black cherry, cassis, liquorice, grilled umami mushroom. Silky tannins segue into a lengthy memorable finish.
Available: regionalwines.co.nz  accentonwine.co.nz

Ogier Héritages Côtes du Rhône Rouge 2022 $25.00
Founded in 1859, Chateaux Ogier is located in the Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Rhône region of France. 80% unoaked. Syrah Mourvèdre dominant. This is a good value blended red. Black cherry, Black Doris plum, cassis, violet florals, and Cuban cigar. Hints of black pepper, juniper and spicy oak. Drink now style.
Available: Farro Fresh, Dhall & Nash  blackmarket.com

Pegasus Bay Vergence Red Mk3 NV $40
A totally fab red non-vintage red from Pegasus Bay. Predominantly pinot noir with 5% malbec. Ripe black berry fruits, with cherry, cassis, Christmas cake spices and a gorgeous soft medium mouthfeel. Aged in French oak for about 16 months. Soft tannins and an umami savoury long finish.
Available: pegasusbay.com

Postage Stamp Camino Tempranillo Waiheke Island 2021 $57
Spicy, tannic, and full bodied. Has spent 15% in new American Oak, thereafter in old American oak barrels. Deep purple and dark, with intense flavours of cassis, Christmas cake spices, black berry summer fruit and some herbal notes. Bone dry, smoky, tannic, oaky, lengthy finish.
Available: postagestampwines.co.nz

Pegasus Bay Aria Late Picked Riesling 2023 $45
Lots going on – intense honeysuckle, raisin, apricot jam, marmalade and mandarin citrus. Segues into an off-dry, lengthy finish.
Available: pegasusbay.com

Pegasus Bay Finale Noble Semillon Sauvignon Blanc 375ml 2021 $34
Definitely a dessert style, but a deceptive 13.5% ABV. A kaleidoscope of luscious flavours including fresh cut pineapple, canned pink guava, apricot jam, quince paste and ginger in syrup with a hint of grassy herbs.
Available: Herne Bay Cellars pegasusbay.com